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United Kingdom - Mortgage Comparison Calculator - UK

Mortgage Comparison Calculator

Compare two UK mortgage deals side by side — not just on the headline interest rate, but on what each one actually costs you. Enter the loan amount once, then fill in the rate, initial fixed period, full term, product fee and repayment type for Deal A and Deal B. The calculator works out the monthly payment and total cost over each deal's initial period, including fees, and tells you which deal is genuinely cheaper and by how much.

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Mortgage Deal Comparison

You are comparing two mortgage deals on the same loan amount. Each deal has its own interest rate, initial fixed period, full mortgage term, product fee and repayment type, so the fairest way to compare them is on total cost over the initial period — not the headline rate alone.

Based on the figures you entered, the calculator works out the monthly payment for each deal, the total amount paid over its initial fixed period (monthly payments plus the product fee), the balance remaining at the end of that period, and an effective "true cost per year" figure for comparison.

Your calculation summary shows the totals for Deal A and Deal B over their initial fixed periods, and identifies which deal costs less overall.

This calculator gives an estimate for comparison purposes only, based on the figures you enter. It does not constitute financial advice. Always check the lender's official Key Facts Illustration (KFI) or European Standardised Information Sheet (ESIS) and speak to a qualified mortgage adviser before choosing a deal.

What this calculator does

This tool compares two mortgage deals on exactly the same loan amount, so the only variables are the ones that actually differ between offers: the interest rate, how long that rate is fixed or discounted for, the overall mortgage term, the product (arrangement) fee, and whether you're repaying capital and interest or interest only. It then works out the monthly payment, the total amount you'd pay over each deal's initial period including the fee, how much balance would be left at the end of that period, and which deal is cheaper overall.

It's designed for comparing two specific offers you've already been quoted — for example two deals from a broker, or a deal from your current lender against a competitor — rather than for working out whether you can afford a mortgage in the first place.

How to compare mortgage deals properly

The single biggest mistake people make when comparing mortgages is looking only at the interest rate. Two deals with the same rate can cost very different amounts once you factor in the fee, and two deals with different rates can cost almost the same once the fee is included. The only reliable comparison is total cost over a common time horizon — normally the initial fixed or discounted period, since that's the period you can actually be confident you'll be on that deal for.

To compare properly: take the monthly payment for each deal, multiply it by the number of months in the initial period, then add the product fee. Whichever number is lower is the cheaper deal over that period — regardless of which one has the "better" headline rate. This calculator does that arithmetic for you automatically.

Why the product fee matters so much

Product (or arrangement) fees on UK mortgages typically range from £0 on fee-free deals up to £1,500–£2,000+ on some of the lowest-rate deals, which are often priced that way deliberately — lenders use a lower headline rate plus a higher fee to look more attractive in rate-sorted comparison tables. On a large loan over a long fixed period, the rate saving from a fee-paying deal can easily outweigh the fee. But on a smaller loan, or a short fixed period, the fee can dominate the comparison and make the "cheaper-looking" deal more expensive overall.

As a rule of thumb: the bigger the loan and the longer the fixed period, the more a fee-paying low-rate deal tends to make sense; the smaller the loan and the shorter the fixed period, the more a no-fee or low-fee deal tends to win, even at a somewhat higher rate. There's no shortcut around actually doing the sum for your own numbers, which is exactly what this calculator is for.

Fixed vs tracker vs variable (SVR) explained

A fixed-rate mortgage keeps your interest rate — and therefore your monthly payment, if repaying capital and interest — exactly the same for an agreed period, usually 2, 3, 5 or 10 years, no matter what happens to interest rates generally. You get certainty, but you may pay more than a tracker would have cost if rates fall, and you'll usually face an early repayment charge if you leave before the period ends.

A tracker mortgage charges a rate that moves automatically with a reference rate — almost always the Bank of England base rate — plus a fixed margin set by the lender (for example, "base rate + 0.75%"). Your payments rise and fall as the base rate changes, with no cap unless the deal specifically includes one.

The standard variable rate (SVR) is each lender's own default rate, which they can raise or lower at their own discretion, broadly (but not strictly) in line with the base rate. SVRs are typically several percentage points above the rates on offer for new fixed or tracker deals, which is why almost nobody chooses to stay on one deliberately — it's what you land on if you don't arrange a new deal before your current one ends.

What APRC means (and its limits as a comparison tool)

APRC (Annual Percentage Rate of Charge) is a single standardised figure that UK lenders are required to quote, intended to let you compare the total cost of different mortgage products on a like-for-like basis. It combines the initial rate, all fees, and the rate you'd pay after the initial period ends (assumed to be the lender's current SVR), spread evenly across the full mortgage term.

APRC is a useful sanity check, but it has a real limitation: it assumes you stay on the lender's SVR for the entire remaining term after your initial deal ends — something almost no borrower actually does, since most people remortgage onto a new deal instead. This means APRC can understate how attractive a short, cheap fixed deal really is (because it penalises it with years of assumed SVR), and can make a long fixed deal look relatively better than it will actually turn out to be if rates fall and you remortgage early. Comparing actual total cost over the initial period — as this calculator does — is usually more useful for deciding between two specific live offers.

How the length of the fixed period affects risk and cost

Shorter fixed periods (2 years) usually come with lower rates than longer ones, because the lender is taking on less interest-rate risk. They give you the flexibility to reassess and remortgage sooner if rates fall, but they also expose you to remortgaging costs and rate uncertainty more often, and a fixed product fee is spread over fewer months, making its effective annual cost higher.

Longer fixed periods (5 or 10 years) typically carry a slightly higher rate in exchange for payment certainty over more years, and they spread a fixed fee over more months, reducing its annual impact. The trade-off is reduced flexibility: if rates fall significantly, or your circumstances change and you need to move or remortgage, you may face an early repayment charge to get out of the deal early.

Early repayment charges (ERCs) when switching

Most fixed and discounted-rate mortgage deals carry an early repayment charge if you pay off some or all of the balance — including by remortgaging to another lender — before the deal ends. ERCs are usually expressed as a percentage of the amount repaid early and commonly taper down each year of the deal, for example 5% in year one, 4% in year two, and so on, reaching 0% once the deal ends.

If you're thinking about switching deals before your current fixed period finishes, always check your existing mortgage offer or annual statement for the exact ERC that would apply, and include it in your comparison — a cheaper new deal can easily be wiped out by a large ERC on your current one.

What happens when a fixed deal ends

If you do nothing when your fixed or discounted period ends, your mortgage automatically moves onto your lender's standard variable rate (SVR). Because the SVR is usually significantly higher than the rates available on new deals, and can change at the lender's discretion, most borrowers arrange a new deal — either staying with their existing lender (a "product transfer") or remortgaging to a new one — to take effect from the day their current deal ends, to avoid any time spent on the SVR.

Many lenders let you lock in a new deal several months in advance of your current one expiring, often without an early repayment charge, which is worth doing well before the end date rather than waiting until the last minute.

Factoring in your own likelihood of moving or remortgaging

The "right" fixed period and fee structure depends heavily on how likely you are to stay in the deal for its full length. If you expect to move house, come into money, or want flexibility to overpay significantly within the next couple of years, a shorter fixed period with a lower (or no) fee reduces the risk of paying for rate certainty — or a fee — you don't end up using, and makes a future remortgage cheaper to arrange. If you're settled and want payment stability for longer, a longer fixed period, potentially with a fee if the rate saving justifies it, can make more sense.

Also consider porting: many mortgages can be transferred ("ported") to a new property if you move house during the fixed period, which can avoid an ERC — but porting isn't guaranteed and is subject to the lender re-approving you and the new property, so it shouldn't be assumed as a certainty when planning.

Capital & Interest vs Interest Only when comparing deals

Make sure you're comparing deals on the same repayment basis. A capital-and-interest deal and an interest-only deal on the same loan, rate and term will have very different monthly payments — interest-only is always lower month-to-month because none of the payment reduces the balance — but interest-only leaves the full loan amount outstanding at the end of the term, requiring a separate repayment vehicle (savings, investments, or sale of the property). Comparing an interest-only quote against a capital-and-interest quote purely on monthly payment, without accounting for this, is comparing two different products, not two prices for the same thing.

Worked example

Say you're comparing two deals on a £200,000 repayment mortgage over a 25-year term, each with a 2-year initial fixed period. Deal A offers 4.5% with a £999 product fee; Deal B offers 4.8% with no fee.

Deal A's monthly payment works out to roughly £1,112, so over 24 months that's about £26,680 in payments, plus the £999 fee — a total of around £27,679 over the initial period. Deal B's monthly payment is roughly £1,146, so over 24 months that's about £27,504 in payments, plus no fee — a total of around £27,504. Despite its higher rate, Deal B is cheaper here by around £175 over the two-year period, because the gap in monthly payments (about £34/month) doesn't add up to more than the £999 fee over just 24 months. Stretch the comparison to a 5-year fixed period instead, and the result could easily flip, since the rate saving would have longer to compound against the fixed fee.

Common mistakes when comparing mortgage deals

  • Ignoring the fee entirely — comparing rates alone and assuming the lowest rate automatically wins.
  • Ignoring differences in the initial period length — comparing a 2-year fixed deal against a 5-year fixed deal purely on monthly payment, without noticing you're not comparing like-for-like time horizons.
  • Comparing different repayment types — setting an interest-only quote against a capital-and-interest quote without adjusting for the very different payment structures.
  • Forgetting the fee can sometimes be added to the loan — which lowers the upfront cash needed but means you pay interest on the fee for the rest of the term, a detail easy to miss when comparing "upfront" fee amounts.
  • Not checking the early repayment charge on your current deal before assuming a switch is worthwhile.
  • Assuming you'll definitely stay for the full term — the cheapest deal over 25 years isn't necessarily the cheapest deal for the 2–5 years you'll realistically be on it before moving or remortgaging.

Official Sources & Further Reading

For official, regulator-backed guidance on mortgage disclosure and comparing deals, see the sources below rather than relying on calculators alone:

Related Calculators

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I compare two mortgage deals?
Don't just compare the headline interest rate — work out the total cost of each deal over its initial fixed or discounted period, including the product/arrangement fee. A deal with a slightly higher rate but no fee can easily beat a lower-rate deal that charges a large upfront fee, especially on smaller loans or shorter fixed periods.
Is a lower interest rate always cheaper?
No. The rate only tells you the cost of borrowing the money — it ignores the product fee, which can be anywhere from £0 to £2,000+. On a modest loan size or a short fixed period, a chunky fee can outweigh a 0.2–0.3% rate saving, so the higher-rate, no-fee deal can end up cheaper overall.
What is APRC on a mortgage?
APRC (Annual Percentage Rate of Charge) is a standardised rate lenders must quote that blends the initial rate, the revert-to rate (usually the SVR) and the fees, spread over the full mortgage term. It's useful for a rough comparison but can be misleading if you don't intend to stay on the lender's SVR for the full term after your fixed period ends, which most borrowers don't.
Should I pay a mortgage product fee or take a higher rate with no fee?
It depends on your loan size and how long the deal is fixed for. Fees tend to pay for themselves on larger loans over longer fixed periods, because the rate saving compounds over more pounds and more months. On smaller loans or short fixed periods, a no-fee or low-fee deal is often cheaper even at a slightly higher rate — a side-by-side total-cost comparison, like the one above, is the only reliable way to check.
What happens when my fixed rate mortgage deal ends?
Unless you arrange a new deal in advance, your mortgage automatically rolls onto your lender's standard variable rate (SVR), which is usually several percentage points higher and can move at any time. Most borrowers remortgage or switch to a new deal with their existing lender shortly before their fixed period ends to avoid sitting on the SVR.
What is the difference between a fixed, tracker and standard variable rate (SVR) mortgage?
A fixed rate stays the same for the deal period regardless of what happens to interest rates generally, giving payment certainty. A tracker rate moves up or down in line with a reference rate (usually the Bank of England base rate) plus a fixed margin. An SVR is the lender's own default rate, which it can change at its own discretion at any time, and is usually the highest and least predictable of the three.
What is an early repayment charge (ERC)?
An ERC is a penalty, usually a percentage of the outstanding balance, charged if you repay some or all of a fixed or discounted deal before it ends — including if you remortgage elsewhere. ERCs typically taper down each year of the deal (for example 5% in year one, falling to 1% in the final year) and should always be checked before switching early.
Can I add the mortgage product fee to my loan instead of paying it upfront?
Most lenders let you add the fee to the loan rather than paying it from savings. This avoids finding cash upfront, but you then pay interest on the fee for the rest of the mortgage term, which makes it more expensive over time than paying it directly. Whether that trade-off is worth it depends on how tight your cash flow is at completion.
Does the length of my fixed period affect how much I pay?
Yes, in two ways. A longer fixed period usually carries a slightly higher rate (you're paying for more rate certainty), but it also spreads a fixed product fee over more months, lowering its effective annual cost. A shorter fixed period often has a lower rate but exposes you to remortgaging costs and rate risk sooner.
How accurate is this mortgage comparison calculator?
It uses the standard UK capital-and-interest and interest-only repayment formulas to estimate monthly payments, total cost over the initial period, and the remaining balance at the end of that period, based on the figures you enter. It's an estimate for comparison purposes — your lender's illustration (the official Key Facts/ESIS document) is the figure to rely on before you commit.
What is the difference between interest-only and capital & interest repayment?
With capital & interest (repayment) mortgages, each monthly payment reduces the balance you owe as well as covering interest, so the loan is fully paid off by the end of the term. With interest-only, your monthly payment covers only the interest, the balance never falls on its own, and you need a separate plan to repay the full loan amount at the end of the term.
Should I always choose the deal with the lowest monthly payment?
Not necessarily. The lowest monthly payment can come from a longer fixed period, a longer overall term, or an interest-only structure — all of which can cost more in total even though the monthly figure looks smaller. Compare total cost over the initial period (and ideally over the full term) rather than the monthly number in isolation.